What is exfoliation?
Exfoliation is a process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of your skin.
Why should you exfoliate?
Your skin naturally sheds dead skin cells to make way for new ones. Exfoliation aids this process by removing the buildup of dead cells, promoting a more youthful appearance. Regular exfoliation can make your skin feel smoother and look more radiant. Exfoliation helps prevent clogged pores and reduces the risk of acne breakouts. Removing dead skin cells allows skincare products to penetrate the skin more effectively.
Types of Exfoliation
Chemical Exfoliation:
Chemical exfoliation is a skincare technique that involves the use of various chemicals to remove dead skin cells and promote healthier, smoother, and more radiant skin. Chemical exfoliants use acids to dissolve dead skin cells. It is preferred by many skincare enthusiasts and professionals because it often provides more controlled and consistent results without the risk of causing microtears in the skin. This process is different from physical exfoliation, which involves the use of abrasive materials like scrubs or brushes to physically slough off dead skin cells.
Physical Exfoliation:
This method involves physically scrubbing the skin’s surface with materials like brushes, sponges, or granulated scrubs. Be gentle to avoid irritation or microtears in the skin. Physical exfoliation can be effective when done correctly, but it can also be harsh on the skin if overused or used improperly.
There are 4 types of chemicals used in chemical exfoliation: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), Poly Hydroxy Acid (PHA) and Lipo Hydroxy Acid (LHA). Here’s an overview of each:
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): These include glycolic acid, lactic acid, Mendalic Acid, tartaric acid and citric acid. AHAs are water-soluble and work on the skin’s surface to improve texture and promote even skin tone. AHAs are known for their ability to exfoliate the surface of the skin, improving its texture and appearance. They work by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, making it easier for them to shed naturally. AHAs are suitable for addressing concerns such as fine lines, uneven skin tone, and sun damage.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA): Salicylic acid is the most common BHA used in skincare. It is oil-soluble and can penetrate into pores, making it excellent for acne-prone skin. BHA can help unclog pores and reduce inflammation. BHAs are especially beneficial for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin, as they can help reduce excess oil production and prevent breakouts.. They also have anti-inflammatory properties, which can soothe irritated skin.
Poly Hydroxy Acid (PHA): These have larger molecules and penetrate more superficially. These are gentle and less irritating which is great for sensitive skin. PHAs are considered a milder alternative to alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and have gained popularity in recent years for their ability to provide effective exfoliation with less potential for skin irritation. Regular use of PHAs can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more even skin tone. PHAs have been shown to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, which is essential for maintaining healthy and resilient skin. The most common PHAs are gluconolactone, galactosen and lactobionic acid. A new generation of AHAs, called polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), was discovered that provide similar effects as AHAs but do not cause the sensory irritation responses that can limit the use of classical AHAs. PHAs have been found to be compatible with clinically sensitive skin, including rosacea and atopic dermatitis, and can be used after cosmetic procedures.
Lipo Hydroxy Acid (LHA): Which is also known as Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, is a derivative (ester) of salicylic acid, but gentler than salicylic Acid. The term “lipo” in LHA stands for lipophilic, which means that LHAs are oil-soluble. The slow penetration of lipohydroxy acid results in an individual cell-by-cell exfoliation that is associated with excellent tolerability. Lipohydroxy acid has been shown to induce dermal thickening by stimulating glycosaminoglycans, collagen, and elastin production. Finally, lipohydroxy acid has been demonstrated to possess comedolytic properties. LHAs can contribute to smoother, more youthful-looking skin by promoting collagen production and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Physical Exfoliants: Include scrubs with particles like sugar, salt, walnut scrubs, apricot scrubs, coffee grounds, or microbeads, as well as exfoliating brushes or sponges. Be gentle when using physical exfoliants to avoid damaging your skin.
Types of Physical Exfoliants:
-Scrubs: These are products that contain small granules or particles, such as sugar, salt, crushed walnut shells, or microbeads, which are used to manually scrub the skin’s surface.
-Brushes: Facial brushes, like cleansing brushes with soft bristles, can be used to manually exfoliate the skin. These brushes are typically used in combination with a cleanser.
-Loofahs and Sponges
-Dermaplaning
-Towels and Washcloths: Rubbing the skin gently with a soft towel or washcloth can also provide a mild form of physical exfoliation.
Benefits of Exfoliation:
-Improves skin texture
-Improves skincare product absorption
-Reduces hyperpigmentation
-Minimizes the appearance of enlarged pores
-Unclogs pores
-Reduces appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
-Removes dead skin cells
-Even skin tone
-Brighter complexion
-Reduces dark spots and pigmentation
Choosing the Right Exfoliant:
Consider your skin type when choosing an exfoliant. Always start with a lower concentration and use it less frequently if you’re new to exfoliation to avoid overexfoliation, which can cause irritation. The frequency of exfoliation depends on your skin type and the product you’re using. Generally, 1-2 times a week is suitable for most people. Sensitive skin may require less exfoliation. Sun Protection: After exfoliation, your skin is more prone to UV damage. Always apply and reapply sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.
Tips for Safe Exfoliation:
-Always follow the instructions on your exfoliation product.
-Avoid over-exfoliating, as it can lead to irritation and sensitivity.
-Use sunscreen daily, as exfoliated skin is more prone to UV damage.
-Be gentle when exfoliating and avoid scrubbing vigorously.
-Use a barrier protective product post exfoliation.
Caution and Considerations:
Overexfoliation: Too much exfoliation can lead to redness, sensitivity, and even damage your skin’s protective barrier. Pay attention to your skin’s reaction and adjust your routine as needed. Overexfoliation can look like red, blotchy, itch or burn upon application of products. Remember to be extremely gentle while using physical exfoliants. Do not use physical exfoliants if you have active acne. Do not use any other actives after chemical exfoliation.
Patch Test: Test any new exfoliating product on a small area of your skin to check for adverse reactions before using it on your entire face.
Hope this helps xx
Sign up
Be updated on new arrivals, trends and offers. Sign up now!
Subscribe
